So, Bali… a washed-up, westernized has-been? A genuine yet blemished treasure? Coming here, we really didn’t know what to expect. Thankfully, after spending a few weeks on the island we found that most of the qualities that have brought wonder … Continue reading →

Despite its upsides, a few days in touristy Ubud, Bali was more than enough for us – perfect timing for our next stop, Pejeng. Pejeng is only 20 minutes northeast of Ubud by motoscooter, but it feels like another world: … Continue reading →

After Munduk, we caught a ride south to Ubud, a small town that is hugely popular with tourists for its numerous art galleries and fascinating displays of Balinese culture. We were very skeptical about going to Ubud knowing how touristy … Continue reading →

As noted in our last few dispatches, we spent an amazing first week in the very traditional village of Sideman, where we witnessed our first Balinese ceremony and first human cremation, saw some impossibly beautiful rice terraces, and met some … Continue reading →

Indonesia is known for its coffee, and within Indonesia, the island of Bali has a style of its own: incredibly strong (both in flavor and caffeine content) and usually served unfiltered, with grounds directly in the cup.  Zooming even further, … Continue reading →

We spent less than a week in Sideman, Bali, Indonesia, but the village made a very personal impact on both of us. Much of that was due to the people we met (as noted our last two dispatches), but the … Continue reading →

As Steph later put it, “I hadn’t imagined I’d ever feel chills in 100-something-degree Bali heat.” And so it was that the day after attending Ketut’s family celebration in Sideman, Futu informed us over breakfast, “A man in this village … Continue reading →

I’m sitting on the veranda of our room just after dawn, and the village of Sideman is already bustling with activity. Motorbikes zoom past out on the main road, and from our porch I can barely pick out tiny silhouettes … Continue reading →